SVATX Race Fairing Kit & optional brackets.
The SVATX Race fairing kit contains a custom made Zero Gravity windscreen and three fiberglass fairing parts: the upper, lower, and race tail. There is also a bracket kit available to affix your new ATXR fairings: a Y shaped windscreen bracket, two small L shaped side brackets, and a fourth upper bracket that will be used in place of your stock headlight and dash bracket.
3) Fit the ATX super sport tail section over the rear sub frame. Mark the points where you'll drill the two holes that will affix the tail section under the seat. NOTE: if you cut away too much of the black inner fender, you may have too fabricate a bracket to support the underside of the rear portion of the tail to the sub frame.
5) Fit and mount the four ATXR fairing brackets. Bracket fitment is explained under the brackets section of these instructions.
6) Pre-fit the upper and lower fairings together off the bike. Drill the holes for use with screws or with after market quarter-turn or Dzus race fasteners. Once these pieces are fitted, install them on the bike. Stick a beer can on top of the front fender this will give the proper fender to fairing clearance, and then lift the rear of the fairing assembly upwards, forwards, side to side, however to get proper height and positioning. Once you have determined placement, mark the points to drill for the mounts. Places to mark: Two points on either side of the fairing that will affix to the L side brackets, four points on either side of the top of the upper to affix to the upper Y windscreen bracket, and two points on the underside of the nose to affix to the front upper J bracket.
7) Drill the fairing points you've marked and also mark and drill the holes for the Zero Gravity windscreen. Note the MODIFICATIONS section of these instructions to help you fit the fairings.
The Y bracket, upper windscreen support: The Y bracket affixes from the two bolts on the front of the fuel tank and extends upward over the top triple clamp to the upper fairing edges that form around the perimeter of the windscreen. In the supplied bag of hardware, you'll find two black spacers that are used in conjunction with the Y bracket's fuel tank bolts. It is recommended to use these spacers under your fuel tank tabs to give the tank a slight lift, potentially increasing air supply to the air box.
The L brackets, fairing sides: To install the two L brackets, you'll need to lift your fuel tank and remove your air box. The L brackets will replace the stock fairing stays (if you have an “S” model) that reside on both sides of the frame underneath the air box. First remove the seat in order to lift the fuel tank. Prop the tank up with a sturdy rod that extends through a fuel tank tab and down into the steering stem hole (this is just a suggestion to insure your tank will not fall while you're working underneath it). Remove the air box by loosening the hose clamps. With a gentle lift, the air box should pop right off, allowing for easy access to the brackets mounts on either side. Replace the stock “S model” brackets with Air Tech's L shaped ATXR brackets. And then reaffix the air box and lower the fuel tank.
The J bracket, forward stay: This front upper bracket replaces the stock “S model” bracket that holds the headlight assembly and the dash. This bracket affixes from the front lugs on the main frame, just outside of the steering stem. This bracket angles forward and turns down to mount the nose section of the ATXR fairing. On the S-model, you will need to make a bracket to hold the dash either to the J-bracket or the top triple clamp.
2) You may need to move your front brake reservoir out of the way of the ATXR upper fairing by either by fabricating a bracket or by flattening and manipulating the stock one.
3) On the S-model, you will need to make a bracket to hold the dash either to the J-bracket or the top triple clamp.
4) You may choose to cut the luggage rack hooks off that extend from the bottom of the rear sub frame.
5) You may want to relocate the rectifier to the inside of the sub frame and out of the way of the ATXR tail section sides. Affix the rectifier tightly with a zip tie.
6) If you choose to disconnect the switch assembly on the left clip-on that controls the headlights and turn signals, there is an ignition wire that runs through the connection. So, if you want to keep your electric starter you'll need to trace this wire and splice into it in order to remove the remaining jumble of useless headlight and turn signal wires.
7) With aftermarket exhaust systems, you may need to trim the rear lower fairing for clearance.
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