Where are you located?
In sunny Vista, California. Some of the best twisty roads in the USA in our backyard, an all-year riding season, the beach and associated scantily clad surf babes are some of the perks of living here. Did we mention the great roads and all-year-riding? Come visit us and check it out!

Who makes your products?
We do! You’re not dealing with some dude that is selling stuff out of his garage, we are the manufacturer. We have a state of the art production facility and make everything in house.

Do you have the items in stock?
No, we make everything to order. We have over 5000 different molds and simply cannot keep fairings in stock. So we’ll make your bodywork especially for you! The average production time is about 10-14 business days depending on the season.

How do I place an order?
Call us! 760-598-3366. Place your order with one of our friendly sales people and pay with Visa, Mastercard, Discover or send us a money order. We're open Mon-Fri, 9-5 PST to answer your phone calls.

What is your bodywork made out of?
Fiberglass. All of our bodywork is hand laid by skilled craftsmen. Airtech uses only the best tried and true aircraft composites. We can make almost every piece out of carbon fiber, too.

What are the advantages of fiberglass over ABS plastic?
Fiberglass is lighter and stronger than ABS plastic. That is why racers use it, and that is why we like it. It doesn’t melt or get brittle like ABS does. And last but not least, it’s repairable if you ever do take a spill or the bike gets knocked over.

Why don’t bike manufacturers use it, then?
You can’t mass produce fiberglass, it would be way to expensive for production bikes. They’ll put it on their factory race bikes, though! Nothing but the best for the best.

What kind of finish is on the bodywork?
We use our proprietary VE Flex gelcoat. Gelcoat is a special coating that is sprayed into the molds and cured, the fiberglass is then laid up on top of it. Once cured the piece will pop out of the mold really smooth and clean. This is a much better finish than the cheap primer filler some companies use to cut cost.

I’ve heard gelcoat spider cracks?
Our special Flex VE coat is designed to prevent the problems associated with old fashioned, inferior gelcoats. Flex VE will not crack under normal circumstances because it’s slightly flexible. Spider cracking can occur when bodywork is improperly mounted or subjected to general abuse. Improper mounting on bent brackets stresses the bodywork, so make sure your brackets are straight. Always use the rubber grommets between the bracket and the fairing when mounting the bodywork onto the bike to help control vibration damage and give a degree of flexibility when needed.

Are your replacement parts just like my stock parts?
We use a full set of original bodywork to craft our molds, so all the exterior dimensions will be the same as they are on the stock parts. Fiberglass will be thinner and lighter than the stock piece. Where possible, we will mold things like radiator shrouds and duct covers into a single piece with the fairing panel they attach to, making the replacement part stronger and lighter, and reducing the number of parting seams. We do not usually do tab work if the tabs are located on the inside of a panel instead of on the perimeter. See next question.

Does your bodywork come with the little plastic tabs on the inside?
No, you can’t really make things like little pushpins, grommets and tabs out of fiberglass. The infamous ‘headlight tabs’ around the headlight opening really do not do much except snap off your headlight mounts and destroy your expensive light if the bike gets dropped. On almost every bike we know (except the EX500) the headlight can be mounted firmly onto the main fairing stay, and this will support all of its weight. Once snugly fitted in the headlight opening, it is absolutely stable. We have personally tested hundreds of bikes at speeds well over 100mph without any problems. On a race track of course, Officer.

If I still want the tabs, what do I do?
Buy some little metal L-brackets, some flat stock and 5-minute epoxy at any home improvement store. Bend and cut your own tabs, drill some small holes and use the 5-minute epoxy to mount your custom made tabs on the inside of the fairing.

Why don’t you drill the holes in your bodywork?
It would make our product much more expensive and slow down the production process tremendously. It is really not hard to drill the holes so we’d rather save you some money and get our products out to you faster.

How do I paint your products?
You will want to dry mount the fairings on the bike first. Line the fairing up with the mounting brackets (make sure they are straight!), drill the holes and then loosely fit the fairing on the bike. Take a close look to make sure all the panels are lining up nicely with the bike, make the final adjustments, tighten everything down and step back to admire your handy work from different angles.
Now take the fairing off the bike, scuff it up with some sandpaper, then spray it with base and clearcoat. Any reputable body shop should be able to do this for you if you wish to go that route.

Can I use pump gas in your racing fuel tanks?
Modern pump gas is pretty crappy stuff. It contains a load of oxygenizers, fuel injector cleaners, ethanol, ketones and other additives that can wreak havoc on a fiberglass tank. Even though we use a high-end aircraft quality vinylester sealer on all of our tanks, it is possible a reaction may occur between pump gas and the tank liner.
We therefore recommend that anyone planning on using pump gas in any of our tanks first coat the inside of the tank with a fuel tank liner like Kreem, before putting gas in the tank for the first time. Heavily dilute the first-step cleaner in the Kreem kit, as it contains heavy ketones (MEK) that will destroy your tank. It is designed to remove fuel residue and varnish from a used tank. A quick rinse will do, do not let the solution stand in the tank, drain and flush with plenty of clean water.
Step 2 is the tank conditioner (etching solution). Since you're not working on a metal tank, just skip it...
Make sure the tank is completely dry before proceeding and follow all manufacturers instructions with step 3, application of the liner.

Last but not least, always use a fuel filter.